As A Dermatologist, What Skincare Essentials Do Most People Miss? What Are Your Tips For Skincare?

This question was originally posted on Quora.com and was answered by Natalia Spierings, Consultant Dermatologist + Dermatological Surgeon at National Health Service (2008-present)



I am a dermatologist and I get this question at least 20 times a day, every day. Your skin is an amazing organ and can take very good care of itself if you leave it alone. It doesn’t need lots of products and creams and serums piled on to it - and 99% of what is sold over the counter is pretty useless anyway (remember cosmetics aren't regulated - that’s why skincare products can make some pretty outrageous claims!). Generally most skincare products are more harmful to your wallet than your skin but also none of them are magic.

To answer your question: there are no skincare essentials. If you spend time outside than a mineral SPF 30 or above with a UV rating of 3 stars or more is very important. And it needs to be applied at least every 3 hours in a volume of 2 grams (like 1 teaspoon) to cover your whole face/neck/ears. And don’t forget a SPF lip balm and your eyelids. The sun is the number one cause of extrinsic skin ageing but also is the number one cause of skin cancer (and non-melanoma skin cancer on the head and neck is the most common cancer of all time).

After that, everything else becomes unnecessary. If you wear makeup, removing makeup is useful - I like oil cleansers as well as oil-infused face wipes (the ones that just are made with coconut oil for example). Yes, using soap etc can disturb the acid mantle and cause your skin to become a bit more dry and irritated. So it’s best to use a face cleanser you like specifically made for facial skin.

If you feel your skin is dry, use a bland moisturiser and one that has a consistency you like (non-greasy or very greasy, etc). I like ones right now that mimic the skin barrier in order to in theory help repair the skin barrier lipid matrix.

If you have a skin problem (like acne, eczema, redness, etc) see a consultant or board-certified dermatologist, get a proper diagnosis and a simple targeted prescription treatment. Don’t waste your money on ‘medispas’ promising all sorts of miracles or tons of beauty department lotions and potions. Marketing has caused a great deal of confusion in the world of skincare (what is ‘toning’ anyway?? Who invented that ridiculous concept?)

So, in summary my top tips are: keep it simple. Save your money. If you have a problem, see a doctor who knows what they are talking about (check their credentials - there are a lot of people out there pretending to be dermatologists - be weary of anyone calling themselves a ‘dermatology doctor’ or a ‘cosmetic doctor’ - you want a consultant derm in the UK or a board-certified derm in the USA). Try to go a few days using no skincare products, no cleansing and no makeup at all and see how your skin reacts - you might surprise yourself. Your skin is cleverer than you think.

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