The Truth About Gel Manicures: What You Need to Know

The Hidden Risks of UV Nail Lamps: Could Frequent Manicures Damage Your DNA?

Ultraviolet (UV) light has long been associated with skin cancer, thanks to its ability to penetrate the skin and cause DNA damage that leads to malignancy. While most people are aware of the risks posed by sun exposure and tanning beds, few consider the potential dangers of the UV lamps used to dry nail polish in beauty salons. A recent study has uncovered concerning evidence that these seemingly harmless nail drying devices may, in fact, be causing DNA damage that could increase the risk of cancer in the hands.

The new research, led by bioengineer Ludmil Alexandrov at the University of California, San Diego, and the University of Pittsburgh, takes a molecular approach to understanding how UV exposure from nail dryers affects human cells. This study provides critical insight into the potential health risks of frequent gel manicures and calls for a reassessment of the safety standards of nail lamps, which have remained largely unexplored in scientific research until now.

Understanding the Problem: UV Light and Its Effects on Skin

UV light, most commonly associated with the Sun, is known to be a major cause of skin cancer. UV radiation causes direct DNA damage by forming thymine dimers, which disrupt the normal function of cells. This disruption can lead to mutations and, over time, increase the likelihood of malignant transformations. While sun exposure is a primary risk factor for skin cancer, a growing body of research suggests that tanning beds, which also emit UV radiation, can have similarly dangerous effects.

For many years, nail salons have relied on UV nail lamps to cure gel manicures quickly and effectively. These lamps typically use UV-A radiation, a less intense form of UV light that differs from the UV-B rays responsible for sunburns. However, despite their popularity, little has been done to assess the potential health risks of prolonged exposure to the UV rays from these nail lamps. The new study by Alexandrov and his colleagues is the first to investigate the molecular effects of nail dryers on human and animal cells, revealing troubling insights into the long-term impact of frequent UV nail treatments.

What the Research Found: DNA Damage and Cell Mutations

Previous studies on the risks of UV nail lamps have generally focused on population-level concerns, suggesting that UV exposure from nail dryers may pose a minimal risk for developing skin cancer. However, Alexandrov and his team’s study dives deeper into the molecular consequences of UV exposure, shedding new light on the potential dangers.

In the experiment, both mouse and human cells were exposed to UV light from a nail polish dryer for two 20-minute sessions, with a one-hour break in between. After the exposure, about 20-30% of the cells died. However, when cells were subjected to three consecutive days of exposure for 20 minutes per day, up to 70% of the cells died. While these extreme conditions do not mirror the typical 10-minute exposure people experience during a standard manicure, the results were nonetheless concerning.

The most troubling finding was that the surviving cells showed signs of DNA damage, including mutations that are commonly associated with skin cancer. The study highlights that while these findings do not provide direct evidence of increased cancer risk, the presence of DNA damage and mutations suggests that prolonged exposure to UV nail lamps could, over time, increase the likelihood of cancer in the hands.

Lead author Ludmil Alexandrov emphasized that prior to this study, there was a significant gap in understanding regarding the molecular effects of UV exposure from nail dryers. “Before this study, there was zero molecular understanding of what these devices were doing to human cells,” he explained. The results of the study underline the need for more research into the long-term effects of UV exposure from nail dryers, especially for individuals who frequent nail salons regularly.

The Risks of Frequent Nail Salon Visits

While the study doesn’t provide definitive evidence that UV nail lamps directly cause skin cancer, it raises critical questions about the cumulative risk for frequent nail salon visitors. Regular exposure to UV light, even in small doses, could contribute to DNA damage over time. As with tanning beds, the cumulative effect of repeated UV exposure could lead to an increased risk of skin cancer, particularly for individuals who get gel manicures every two weeks.

Dr. Maria Zhivagui, the first author of the study, was so alarmed by the findings that she decided to stop getting gel manicures. “Once I saw the effect of radiation emitted by the gel polish drying device on cell death and that it actually mutates cells even after just one 20-minute session, I was surprised,” Zhivagui said. While she may be erring on the side of caution, her decision highlights the concern that even occasional exposure could be detrimental over time.

Dermatologists have weighed in on the issue, suggesting that the risk of developing skin cancer from UV nail lamps is likely low for most people, particularly those under the age of 65 who visit nail salons infrequently. Dr. Melissa Piliang, a dermatologist from the Cleveland Clinic, has warned that those who visit nail salons more frequently—such as individuals who get gel manicures every two weeks—may face a greater risk of developing skin cancer due to repeated exposure.

Study Reference: https://www.nature.com/articles/s41467-023-35876-8

Are Gel Manicures Worth the Risk?

For many people, getting a gel manicure is a treat. The long-lasting polish is convenient, and the UV drying process is fast and efficient. However, with mounting concerns about the potential health risks, individuals may want to reconsider how often they indulge in this beauty treatment. While the risk of developing skin cancer from nail lamps is not yet fully understood, it’s worth considering the possible dangers of repeated UV exposure.

For those who are concerned about the potential risks, dermatologists recommend taking precautions. One simple solution is to apply sunscreen to the hands before visiting the nail salon. Sunscreen can help protect the skin from harmful UV radiation and reduce the chances of DNA damage during the manicure. Another option is to wear UV-blocking gloves with finger holes, which would shield the hands from direct UV exposure without interfering with the drying process.

Although sunscreen and gloves can mitigate some of the risks, they are not foolproof. More research is needed to determine the exact level of risk associated with frequent exposure to UV nail lamps. In the meantime, individuals who are particularly concerned about the risks may want to limit their visits to nail salons or seek alternative manicure options, such as non-UV gel polishes or traditional nail polish that does not require UV drying.

The Need for Further Research

Despite the growing concern over UV nail lamps, there is still a lack of comprehensive studies on their long-term effects. The 2013 study that found UV nail lamps to emit radiation 4.2 times stronger than the sun raised alarms, but it has yet to lead to widespread research or regulation. According to the authors of the current study, there is an urgent need for independent epidemiological research to understand the potential health risks posed by these devices. Such studies could take years to complete, but they are critical to informing the public and establishing safety guidelines for the use of UV nail lamps.

While researchers hired by product testing companies have dismissed the findings, arguing that the risks associated with UV exposure during a single manicure are minimal, it is clear that more research is necessary. Observational studies alone are not sufficient to understand the potential long-term consequences of repeated exposure to UV radiation from nail dryers. The authors of the 2013 paper, who raised concerns about the high intensity of UV radiation in nail lamps, have continued to advocate for more in-depth research to assess the risks accurately.

Conclusion: Weighing the Risks and Benefits of Gel Manicures

As with many beauty treatments, the decision to get a gel manicure should involve weighing the risks and benefits. While UV nail lamps may pose a minimal risk for skin cancer, particularly for occasional salon-goers, frequent exposure could increase the chances of DNA damage and mutations. The current study suggests that there may be a cumulative effect that could contribute to the development of skin cancer over time, although much more research is needed to establish a definitive link.

Until more comprehensive studies are conducted, individuals who are concerned about the risks may want to take precautions, such as applying sunscreen before their manicures or wearing UV-blocking gloves. With more research, we will better understand the long-term effects of UV nail lamps and be able to make more informed decisions about their use.